The Complex Truth About Matcha Quality: Why "Ceremonial Grade" is a Misleading Myth
Summary:
The term "ceremonial grade" matcha is misleading and meaningless because:
- It is unregulated and lacks a universal definition, allowing any company to use it without consistent standards.
- It ignores the distinct styles of matcha used in traditional Japanese tea ceremonies (chanoyu), which typically favor consistent, blended teas with poetic names over single-origin varieties.
- It fails to acknowledge the broad spectrum of quality and price within teas actually used in tea ceremonies, from practice-grade (Keiko) to high-quality Koicha.
- Its use often commodifies chanoyu, misrepresenting the cultural and artistic practice.
- True matcha quality is complex, depending on factors like shading, picking methods, and cultivars, not a simple "grade." Consumers should seek transparency and develop their own palate rather than relying on an undefined label.
Matcha Quality Spectrum [ 00:09:18 ]
The Myth of "Ceremonial Grade" Matcha [00:00:00]
The video addresses the controversial claim that "ceremonial grade matcha" is a meaningless term. The speaker argues this term is reductive, undefined, and ultimately harmful to a nuanced understanding of tea and tea culture.
The main reasons why the term "ceremonial grade" is misleading are:
- 1. Unregulated and Undefined [00:00:44]
- There is no agreed-upon definition or centralized organization that sets standards for what can be sold as "ceremonial grade."
- "Ceremonial" refers to the Japanese tea ceremony (chanoyu, sadō, chadō), implying suitability for tea gatherings.
- "Grade" implies a ranking system, which does not exist in a regulated manner.
- This lack of regulation means companies can label any tea as "ceremonial grade."
- The only regulated aspect is the production and sale of tencha, the raw material for matcha, occurring behind the scenes, not for consumer-facing matcha products.
- Intended meaning: The term likely originated to distinguish decent quality matcha from lower-quality varieties for traditional hot water consumption (Usucha).
- 2. Ignores Stylistic Differences in Tea Ceremony Matcha [00:00:49]
- Matcha used in traditional tea rooms is almost exclusively made from blended tencha (tea from multiple farms/cultivars) to create a consistent, reliable flavor profile year after year.
- This contrasts with single-origin matcha, popular in casual drinking and among enthusiasts, where flavor can vary with each harvest.
- Tea room blends traditionally carry a poetic name (e.g., "Uta-no-Mori," "Kiku-no-Sono"), often in the form of "_-no-Mukashi" or "__-no-Shiro," which plays a role in the tea ceremony experience.
- Single cultivar and single origin matcha are generally not served in traditional tea rooms, making the "ceremonial grade" label problematic for such teas.
- 3. Ignores the Range of Quality in Tea Room Matcha [00:00:54]
- Tea ceremony practitioners typically categorize matcha into two basic quality levels:
- Lower quality (but still high-grade) suitable for Usucha (thin tea).
- Higher quality suitable for Koicha (thick tea).
- An additional category is Keiko-yō (practice grade) [00:05:47], which is a slightly lower quality, affordable, drinkable usucha used for practice or lessons.
- Chakai-yō (tea gathering grade) [00:06:03] is usucha served at actual tea gatherings.
- All these varying quality levels (Koicha, Usucha, Keiko) would be lumped under "ceremonial grade," rendering the term uninformative due to the vast differences in taste, price, and production.
- Tea ceremony practitioners typically categorize matcha into two basic quality levels:
Understanding Matcha Quality in Japan [00:05:08]
Matcha Grades and Production Characteristics [00:06:56]
While there are no strict standards for labelling, common characteristics can be found across different matcha grades:
- Koicha Grade [00:07:07]
- Stone-ground, from hand-picked first-flush leaves.
- Grown on shizen-shitate (naturally tailored) bushes under high-quality shelf-style shading.
- Made from high-level cultivars like Gokō, Asahi, Samidori, or Uji-hikari.
- Usucha Grade [00:07:36]
- Stone-ground, from first-flush tea leaves.
- A mix of hand and machine picking.
- Grown on une-shitate (tailored) bushes, often under direct shading (cheaper, slightly lower quality than shelf shading).
- Cultivars include a blend of higher-grade varieties with more generic, standard ones like Okumidori or Yabukita.
- Keiko Grade (Practice Grade) [00:08:21]
- Stone-ground, from first-flush tencha.
- Predominantly mechanically harvested.
- Mostly uses basic cultivars, primarily Yabukita, with some other cultivars for flavor.
- Quality Spectrum [00:08:51]
- There is a wide spectrum of price and quality within each grade. The cheapest Keiko grade is vastly different from the most expensive Koicha.
Matcha Quality Scale [ 00:09:18 ] - All three categories (Koicha, Usucha, Keiko) are used by tea ceremony practitioners, highlighting the meaninglessness of a single "ceremonial grade" label.
- There is a wide spectrum of price and quality within each grade. The cheapest Keiko grade is vastly different from the most expensive Koicha.
The Commodification of Chanoyu [00:09:29]
The speaker expresses personal disappointment that the term "ceremonial grade" misrepresents, reduces, and commodifies the art form of chanoyu. This is especially concerning when done by companies that neither participate in nor understand the culture. The continued use of this term spreads misinformation about both the agricultural and cultural aspects of tea.
Beyond "Ceremonial Grade": Culinary Matcha and Mislabeling [00:10:18]
Matcha not intended for drinking is often called "culinary grade" and used in confectionery, baking, and lattes.
- The quality of culinary grade varies widely, from just below Keiko grade to mechanically ground, fourth-harvest powdered tea that technically shouldn't be called matcha.
- True matcha must be made from tencha, which by regulation, should be shaded for a specific period and picked from first-flush leaves.
- Many products sold as "matcha" are not technically matcha because they are harvested too late (second, third, or fourth flush), mechanically ground (instead of stone-ground), or not grown in Japan.
Single Origin vs. Blended Matchas [00:11:21]
While many single-origin teas are labeled "ceremonial grade," they are not the traditional style served in tea rooms.
- Many single-origin teas are of higher quality than some blended teas in the Usucha to Keiko range.
- For example, a high-quality single-origin matcha (like Kuradashi Saemidori) might be superior in taste to a blended Uji-no-Mori, but the latter's poetic name and traditional flavor profile make it more suitable for a tea room setting.
- The complex and non-linear nature of matcha quality means a single "ceremonial grade" term erases important distinctions and variety that should be appreciated.
Conclusion: Navigating Matcha Quality [00:12:26]
"Ceremonial grade" is not a reliable indicator of quality. Consumers should look for transparency regarding where, how, and with what cultivars the tea was grown and processed. Ultimately, developing one's own palate through experience is the best way to distinguish good matcha from bad.