How to Electroplate Resin 3D Prints with DIY Graphite Paint for Shiny Metal Finishes
HEN3DRIK - Electroplating 3D Prints
Summary:
This video demonstrates how to electroplate resin 3D prints using a homemade conductive graphite paint to achieve shiny metal finishes in copper, nickel, gold, and silver.
- Print resin parts with a high-resolution printer (like Elegoo Mars 4 9K) for minimal layer lines, which are crucial for a smooth final finish.
- Create a DIY conductive graphite paint using acetone, binder (two-component adhesive binder works), and micro graphite powder.
- Prepare the prints by removing rough edges and sanding, then apply multiple coats of the DIY graphite paint, polishing between coats to achieve good conductivity (aim for around 1k Ohm).
- Set up a copper electroplating bath with acidic bright copper electrolyte and copper anodes (filtered to prevent contamination). Use a rotary jig for even deposition.
- Calculate the required current based on the print's surface area (using tools like Blender's 3D Print Toolbox). Run the copper plating process (e.g., 4 hours at 1-2A/dm²).
- Perform intermediate polishing on the copper-plated parts to smooth the surface further before applying subsequent metal layers.
- Apply additional platings like nickel, gold (using stainless steel anodes), and silver (using silver anodes), noting the toxicity of these electrolytes and the importance of PPE and proper ventilation.
- Showcase the final results of the plated 3D prints. Collect and dispose of chemical waste responsibly.
Introduction [00:00]
The video explores applying shiny metal coatings (copper, gold, and silver) to resin 3D prints through electroplating.
- The process aims to create realistic metal props or objects.
- Key highlights include a DIY conductive graphite paint, electroplating techniques with minimal issues, and achieving a good polish without extensive grinding.
Creating the 3D Prints [00:30]
Resin prints are used for electroplating due to their smooth surface finish.
- A resin printer with a 9K display minimizes visible layer lines, which is important as electroplating magnifies surface imperfections.
- While FDM prints can be used, they require significant post-processing to smooth out layer lines.
- Prints featured: a flying lady figurine (interpretation of a famous design), a Melina's brooch from Elden Ring, a Mora coin from Genshin Impact, and a pendant from Creative Britt.
Creating a DIY Conductive Paint for Airbrushing [01:19]
A DIY conductive paint is made using graphite powder, which is globally accessible.
- Ingredients:
- Mixing container
- Micrographite (4 micrometer, 99% pure graphite) [01:29]
- Solvent: Acetone or butyl acetate [01:34]
- Binder: Binder from a two-component adhesive was found to work well, but other binders may suffice. [01:40]
- Mixing Process:
- Dissolve approximately 1g of binder in 40g of acetone.
- Add 5g of graphite powder and mix thoroughly.
- Transfer the paint into small dropper bottles for airbrushing. [02:50]
- Safety Precautions:
- Emphasize the importance of personal protective equipment (PPE) like a respirator, eye protection, and gloves due to chemical fumes. [01:50]
- Work in a well-ventilated area. [02:12]
Making 3D Prints Conductive [03:15]
Proper surface preparation and application of conductive paint are critical for successful electroplating.
- Surface Preparation:
- Resin prints need to be smooth and even.
- Remove rough edges and use sanding fleece. [03:05]
- Electroforming/electroplating amplifies small scratches, so a well-prepared surface is crucial.
- A rotary tumbler with walnut granules (0.4-0.8mm grain size) can also be used for polishing. [03:42]
- Applying Conductive Paint:
- Apply at least 5 coats of the graphite paint. [03:21]
- Allow each layer to dry thoroughly.
- Polish the print with a cloth in between layers to improve conductivity. [03:26]
- Checking Conductivity:
- Use a multimeter to check resistance.
- Aim for a resistance of around 1000 - 2000 ohms (measured with thumb's width apart). [04:05]
Electroplating Copper on Graphite Paint [04:15]
Copper electroplating is the first step, forming the base layer.
- Bath Setup:
- Use acidic bright copper electrolyte in a container. [04:15]
- Use one or two copper sheets as anodes. [04:23]
- Filter the electrolyte and place anodes in coffee filters/fleece bags to prevent contamination from suspended particles. [04:42]
- Electric Field Management:
- An even coating requires managing the electric field distribution, which is geometry-dependent, especially in copper plating. [05:07]
- Moving the part is beneficial. A rotary jig with a continuous servo and controller can be used for this purpose. [05:16]
- Power Supply and Current Calculation:
- An adjustable power supply capable of constant current (C.C.) is needed. [05:43]
- Limit the current and increase voltage, then adjust current to the calculated value until the C.C. indicator lights up. [05:53]
- Connect anodes to the positive pole and the print (cathode) to the negative pole. [06:04]
- Calculate the required current (typically 1-2 amps per square decimeter) based on the print's surface area. [06:12]
- Blender's 3D Print Toolbox add-on can calculate the surface area. [06:24]
- Plating Process and Results:
- The first piece after 4 hours of copper plating shows a smooth surface with few impurities. [06:44]
- Rinsing and filtering the electrolyte is recommended between batches. [06:51]
- Issues arise from insufficient preparation (e.g., conductivity), leading to blotchy plating or field artifacts. [07:05]
- A successfully plated part measured 150µm thickness after 4 hours at 1.5A/dm². [08:36]
Intermediate Polishing 3D Prints [07:55]
Polishing the copper layer is done before applying final metal finishes.
- All copper-plated pieces are polished to prepare them for the next plating steps. [07:56]
- A rough sanding is sufficient if using a polishing machine. [08:00]
- Polishing by hand takes longer. [08:08]
- Cautionary note: a part was damaged during machine polishing. [08:25]
More Platings: Nickel, Gold and Silver Electrolyte [09:09]
Applying subsequent layers of other metals.
- Nickel Plating:
- Uses nickel electrolyte and nickel anodes. [09:10]
- Nickel electrolyte is toxic.
- The Flying Lady receives a nickel coating (5 minutes at ~2V). [09:50]
- Gold Plating:
- Uses gold electrolyte and stainless steel anodes. [09:15]
- Gold electrolyte can produce very toxic fumes, especially with acid contact. All acids are kept away from the workspace. [10:28]
- The brooch, coin, and pendant are plated with gold. [10:38]
- Brush plating with a different gold electrolyte is an alternative to bath plating. [10:51]
- Silver Plating:
- Uses silver electrolyte and silver anodes. [10:54]
- Silver electrolyte can stain skin black for weeks.
- Silver is applied over the gold layer (the nickel layer can theoretically be skipped). [10:59]
- The pendant receives a silver plating as the final layer. [11:02]
- Waste Disposal: All chemical waste (liquids, dried paper) must be collected and taken to a recycling center due to toxicity. [10:10]
Presentation of the finished plated pieces.
- The successfully plated 3D prints are showcased, including before and after comparisons.
- Further tutorials and relevant information are available in the video description. [11:21]